I’m just going to come straight out and say it. This is the best wine Gary Mills has made under the Jamsheed label to date. And there have been plenty of good’uns. It’s from the Warner vineyard in Beechworth (yes, the one Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda fame accesses as well). I don’t have the tech specs but the incorporation of whole bunches is obvious, oak is a bit player and I think it’s pretty safe to say that indigenous yeast was used in the ferments. I’d also make a friendly wager on a small proportion of Roussanne playing a part but who knows? If it is there it isn’t dominant so please don’t let my guess put you off. There’s every chance I’m wrong anyway.
Glycerol mouthfeel, grape-skin and stem tannin, granite minerality and embedded natural acidity make this a textural tour de force. Dark cherries, salami, smoke, pan juices, star anise and pepper are some of the elements generating a world of complexity. It’s enough to make the plot from Inception seem straightforward. Despite its variegated persona there’s not one component that jars or falls short of making complete sense. 94+
Tasted: August 2013