2012 The Story Tinkers Shiraz

The-Story-Tinkers-Grampians-Shiraz-2012-C-Low-Res-149x300Excuse me getting all personal but I was having a pretty shite Monday when I opened this around lunchtime. I went out to get the new Billy Bragg album “Tooth and Nail” and planned to taste/drink this recent effort from Rory Lane while listening to it. Bragg’s music and lyrics were a bit too up-beat for my mood so I swapped over to The National’s “Trouble Will Find Me” – a pairing that worked well. Echoed the themes of alienation and fragility on that album. Rory reckon’s that was the influence of 3% Grenache in the mix. From the label:

Techno-tinkers are the modern group of scientists, artists and tradespeople who move from place to place, bringing their wits, talent and energy to new projects and then moving on. Not quite gypsies but happily not bound to one place or style either. As of 2012 we don’t own a vineyard, winery, equipment or offices; nor, with the sale of our home, a residence. 2012 tinkers.

A diasporic wine then but one that speaks clearly of its origins in the Grampians nonetheless. Lifted florals set off dark cherries, general brambliness, essence of forest, pepper and cherry pips. All given a light sheen by cocoa oak while bright cranberry acidity lights up the dense fleshy characters. Plenty of carry and supple, come-hither tannin. Yes. 94 Excellent 

“Everything I love is on the table.
Everything I love is out to sea.” – The National

Region: Grampians
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $28
Tasted: May 20th

http://thestory.com.au

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2011 Cradle of Hills Route de Bonheur GMS

cradle of hills gmsAn appealing, early drinking expression of Grenache Mourvèdre Shiraz. Light and airy. Not big on density but calms like a cooling breeze. It’s 65%, 25% and 12% respectively for those keeping score at home.

Vital cherry and blueberry with a streak of sweet raspberry running through it. Rose water fragrance in the glass. Plenty of fruit and peppery spice with tastefully applied French oak. Thatch and leaf from the cool year. Nippy acidity but it has the flavour to accompany it. Elegant, medium-bodied and moreish. I wouldn’t cellar it but it is drinking very well right now. 91 Good

Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: May 19th

http://www.cradle-of-hills.com.au

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2011 Three Dark Horses Grenache

three dark horses sgtIt wasn’t all doom and gloom for McLaren Vale in 2011 - I was singularly impressed by many of the ‘Scarce Earth’ Shirazes from the vintage at a recent tasting. More on that soon.

This has some brackeny, grubby characters but there’s a core of dark cherry and red fruit intact. Spicy, herbal and autumnal if a little woody, salty and bitter at the back-end. I think I’ve said that I prefer less oak with my Grenache enough times now. Savoury wine. You could do a lot worse. 86 Average

Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 14.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: May 20th

http://www.3dh.com.au

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2012 Torzi Matthews 1903 Old Vines Grenache Mataro of Domenico Martino

torzi old vines grenache mataroA new wine from Domenic Torzi and Tracy Matthews and it’s a belter. Equal parts Grenache and Mataro sourced from 110 year-old Moppa vines in the north-west of the Barossa Valley. As indicated by the name the vineyard is owned by Domenico Martino, an Italian immigrant from Campania. Torzi’s been tending it for the last ten years and he shows the site a great deal of respect with this unfettered, uncluttered and expressive blend.

Initially it’s lithe bordering on ripped but it puts on some flesh in the glass. Fresh plums and cherries mingle with blue flowers and ironstone. Sweet, earthen spices. Pure, defined aromas. A predominately savoury flavour profile with precise delivery and extended length via linear, long-strand tannins. Sophisticated architecture. Oak is a minor player, contributing to the texture but never obstructing the fruit. There’s a joie de vivre about the whole affair which is just impossible to deny. Longevity is pretty much assured. 94+ Excellent

Region: Barossa Valley
Alcohol: 14.2%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $35
Tasted: May 20th

http://www.torzimatthews.com.au

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2012 Journey Wines Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

journey-pinot12Sommelier turned winemaker Damien North is turning out some lovely wines at the moment – and this is only the second year the Journey Wines label has been up and running. With a background that includes stints at TarraWarra, Leeuwin Estate and some time in Oregon perhaps this shouldn’t be so surprising. The 2012 Pinot incorporates 20% whole bunches and is wild fermented. It sees 25% new oak (French barriques). All Upper Yarra Valley fruit.

Given time the stalky, sappy vegetal whole bunch notes acclimatise and provide a lifted floral and smoky perfume which is the perfect foil to the feline fruit flavours. High notes of strawberry and cherry with a bass line of plum and loganberries. Pepper, pastrami and earth add even more complexity and depth. Fine acidity moves seamlessly into textured tannin on a medium-bodied palate. Slinky and long. Will perform well over the next five years at least. 93 Very Good

Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $34
Tasted: May 16th

http://www.journeywines.com.au

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2011 Maxwell Four Winds Grenache

maxwell grenacheFrom 88 year-old vines. Maturation took place in French hogsheads for 15 months. An awkward and somewhat mawkish wine from the troubled 2011 vintage.

Tomato-like acidity juts out and too much oak smothers the fruit and supresses the floral charm Grenache can offer. Cloves and pepper, resin, sweet raspberry and dark cherry with a medicinal edge. Light, smudgy tannin. Splays languidly on the palate. Not much going for it unfortunately. 86 Average

Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 14.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $22
Tasted: May 19th

http://maxwellwines.com.au

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2010 Cradle of Hills Shiraz Mourvèdre

cradle of hills shiraz mataroCradle of Hills are a producer to watch in McLaren Vale but I must admit I’m not entirely enamoured with this release from the excellent 2010 vintage. It’s a touch too thick and slightly soupy with the alcohol also quite noticeable. The 25% Mourvèdre helps but ultimately I think it lacks the vitality and shape that I’ve seen in the top efforts from that year. Still, at $25…

Black at heart with dynamics in the form of Morello cherries and blueberry. Ironstone, bourbon, coffee and earth. Pepper, dark chocolate and Asian spice. It’s a creamy wine, smooth with ripe ferrous tannin and a clip of French vanilla oak. If you’re after a hit of dense flavour with significant complexity this fits the bill. 89 Good

Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: May 18th

http://www.cradle-of-hills.com.au

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2010 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay

leeuwin 2010_art_chardonnayTasted briefly alongside the 2006, 2008 and 2009 vintages last week then again from one bottle over two days. It’s looking just as impressive today as it did in the mini-vertical. I suspect many of us over-rated the 2009 LEAS Chardonnay – myself included – but I have no such doubts here.

It’s as powerful a wine as ever but it’s coiled and tight with impeccable structure. The oak is more integrated than I’ve ever seen in a young Art Series Chardonnay. It contributes toast and sweet spice but it’s certainly not the dominant feature. Fruit is first and foremost. Focused, fine, intense and persistent fruit. Pears, grapefruit and lemon sidling up to a little nectarine. What I can’t see is any white or yellow peach. Some almonds add further savoury interest. As good as it is now, it will mature into one of the great vintages of a wine of outstanding pedigree. 97 Exceptional

Region: Margaret River
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $96
Tasted: May 18th

http://leeuwinestate.com.au

Posted in Chardonnay, Margaret River | Tagged | 2 Comments

2010 Les Courtilles Châteauneuf-du-Pape

les courtilles CnDPI’m happy to go on record as saying I have soft spot for CDPs. I’ll drink Rayas and Charvin any day of the week and even the less prestigious (and less expensive) wines hit the spot if they’re well executed. There’s plenty of saturated flavour in this Grenache dominant blend which also incorporates Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. It’s not a wine for the faint-hearted though.

Raspberry coulis and kirsch, licorice and baking spice. It’s tarry, rich and warm but there aren’t any overt heat spikes. Lavender wafts from the glass and earthy, meaty qualities provide a counterpoint to the dense, ripe profile. A powerful, velvety wine with black fruit skulking beneath the surface. Ultimately the nutty and almost intricate tannin is crucial to its success…and I’m happy to say it’s up to the task. 92 Very Good

Region: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone Valley
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Price: $65
Tasted: May 17th

http://les-courtilles.com.au

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2011 Les Courtilles Côtes du Rhône

les courtilles cotes de rhoneA blend of 70% Grenache, 27% Syrah with small amounts of Mourvèdre and Carignan in the mix - very much an example of what Australian producers are up against in the value stakes when it comes to imported reds sitting around the twenty-dollar mark. It’s a simple sort of wine but gosh it smells and tastes good. The fruit is sourced from the right bank of the Rhône between Orange and Avignon.

Fairly typical sweet red berry/cherry fruits, sandy earth and granite minerality. An inviting rose petal fragrance with scattered dried herbs on the back-palate. It has a touch of warmth but a fair amount of verve as well. Oak sits well behind the fruit, contributing little in the way of overt flavour. Satisfactory if not great length and ample utilitarian structure. For the money it’s bang on. Pretty much ready to go now although I doubt a few more years will hurt it. 90 Good

Region: Rhone Valley
Alcohol: 14.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $20
Tasted: May 17th

http://les-courtilles.com.au

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