For the uninitiated, Topper’s Mountain are situated in the New England wine region on the border of New South Wales and Queensland. They’re engaged in a lot of different projects at the moment, and what’s more they are carrying them out well. In the years to come I would expect their portfolio to shrink somewhat and the quality to increase and become more stable. Having said that, there’s a great deal of joy and excitement that results from participating in the formative stages of their evolution.
This is a particularly ripe Barbera and I can’t help but feel that its dynamic range is clipped as a result of leaving the grapes to hang for as long as they have. The grape’s natural levels of acidity are still present, if somewhat lower in the mix than many of us might be use to. Fruit flavour leans toward black brambly berries and the dried herb character bleeds into a pleasing aniseedy pastis dimension. It just sits a little flat at the end of the day but it’s a good wine. 88
Region: New England
Tasted: August 2013