I thought I may have lost a bit of interest in the 100 year-old Garden Gully vineyard but this wine has changed my mind to some degree. It has the falling leaf savouriness of the vintage and it’s one of the lightest Shirazes I can remember Rory Lane making from Grampians fruit but it presents as physiologically ripe and clean. Sandier/sedimentary soils may have helped here, increasing the rate of ripening and perhaps providing better drainage.
Black fruits, cherries and plums are lit up by bright acidity and pepper spice. A touch of stalky vegetation from the 35-40% whole bunches incorporated but the fruit flavour handles it well. Complexing notes of grilled meats and saline minerality – not salty per se though. It’s nimble and swift across the palate. Slivers of dark chocolate oak along with a few strands of licorice. Textured tannins drag the finish out and are a fitting conclusion to the entire affair. 93
Tasted: November 2013