Winemaker Caroline Mooney spent several years working alongside Tom Carson at Yering Station. This Chardonnay bears almost no resemblance to the wines born from their time together – the only link is quality. When Caroline departed from her position and launched her Bird on a Wire label she wanted to do things her way. Thus the Leonard Cohen reference in the title…although Mooney prefers Johnny Cash’s rendition.
Forget the lean mold of Yarra Valley Chardonnay that is in fashion. “I wanted to make a Chardonnay that tasted as much like Chardonnay as it could.” Don’t expect peaches and butterscotch though. This is a tasteful if reasonably generous interpretation of the 36 year-old Willow Lake vines planted in the Upper Yarra.
A slightly buttery edge from about 30% malolactic fermentation is ably countered by fine and precise natural acidity. No adjustments were made. It tastes of pears, green melon and honey with sweet spice and subliminal bitter tonic notes. Rounded but far from formless. Character and accessible pleasure in one package. 92
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13.4%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $40
Tasted: September 2013