2006 Melba Lucia

Yarra Valley 14.0% Screwcap $35

A reverse Super Tuscan with 71% Cabernet 18% Merlot 9% Sangiovese 2% Petit Verdot, inoculated with brett. Compelling like a car crash and I’m not sure it’s any more enjoyable than that either. I certainly did want to keep having another look though…

Fresh red and black berries with cherry notes, but it’s not really a fruit driven wine. It’s about nuts and meat (cured & otherwise) and graphite and chocolate. And metal.

I could talk about the flow and the flavours more, but I’ll try and make the note more commensurate with the wine. That is, the brett seemed to strip the flavours on the finish to such an extent that the dominating recollection of this wine is of sucking on some rusty nails.

There is an enormous wall of tannin, so I’m guessing that this is built for the long haul even though I won’t be cellaring any myself. Perhaps it’s a wine for the Structuralists among us. Nah, it’s clearly an adventurous Post-Structural wine: Reverse Super Tuscan, inoculated with brett, simulation of a claret. A wine more for the thought of enjoyment or the enjoyment of thought perhaps?

“It’ll be great when it’s finished”, but I doubt I’ll be drinking it then ;-)

Winery Website- http://www.debortoli.com.au/home.html

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2 Responses to 2006 Melba Lucia

  1. Andrew Graham says:

    It does seem rather counter productive doesn't it – innoculating your fine wine with a known spoilage yeast.

    I do like the fact that Steve Webber is a tinkerer though, even if it doesn't always work.

  2. Jeremy Pringle says:

    Yep, I love Steve Webber as a tinkerer and I did want to enjoy this wine more than I did. Oh well, others seem to fancy it so it has its fans. Hopefully that will keep Webber playing around with wine in the same manner he has done to this point.

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