Very much in the mold of the Rieslings I was tasting when I visited Orange last year. And here I’d like to make a personal distinction between what I see as balance and what I see as tension. Many of the winemakers in the region have declared a desire to achieve balance between the natural acidity produced by the cool climate and residual sugar. Drew Tuckwell of Printhie sits within this group and I think it’s difficult to see this wine as anything other than balanced. It possesses rounder body and fruit that lies in a broader spectrum than just the lime and lemon many associate with, say, the Clare or Eden Valley while maintaining an embedded acid line. On that level it is highly commendable.
Any move away from a bone dry classic Australian interpretation begs the question though – would I choose this over many German models that possess a little sweetness? Or even a few examples from Tasmania or New Zealand? My answer is no. It lacks tension…that state of being where the relationship between the acidity and the residual sugar is stretched and slightly anxious. Tension for me adds excitement. An x-factor that isn’t captured by balance alone. Whether it’s fair of me to make this differentiation and comparison is up for debate.
Spiced baked apples, Schweppes lime cordial and melon. A hint of sherbet. Intensity and length are very good, acid is embedded. It’s a pleasing drink with wide appeal. But it never really lights my fire. 90
Tasted: March 2013