As soon as winemaker Ray Costanzo pulled out his new release 2012 ‘Vintage Grand Reserve’ range he made mention of how he disliked the term ‘Reserve’ when it appeared on a wine label. I couldn’t agree more but when Ray explained that it was a “dedication to the vintage rather than the wine itself” I found my stance softening. The Granite Belt has experienced rough conditions over the past few years and although yields were down in 2012, the vintage produced reds of concentration and very high quality.
Excellent depth of flavour, perfectly pitched acidity and lingering chalky tannins lay the groundwork for one of the best Tempranillos I’ve seen come out of this country. A core of red cherry/berry fruit, cinnamon and pepper spice with suggestions of Chinotto and lavender. Significant oak (second and third use) but its contribution is more about texture than flavour. Sits firmly in the savoury spectrum. Poise, purpose and class. Looked its best on the third day of tasting. You could go long on this. Give it a thorough decant if you want to tuck in now. 94
Region: Granite Belt
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $65
Tasted: December 2013
Great news to see this release…if there is one varietal that the Granite Belt (with it’s unique soil & climate) can call it’s own, then surely this is it…
Ray’s standard Tempranillo offering is always a bit of good gear too
If the Granite Belt were to have a ‘hero’ variety then Tempranillo would deserve to be in the mix. Ray considers it his most consistent performer. There is no ‘standard’ 2012 Tempranillo – thus the dedication to vintage rather than a tiered approach. Sensible use of the word ‘Reserve’ if ever I’ve seen it.
Can’t comment on the wine, haven’t tried this vintage, tried many of the previous vintages. Previous wines have tended to be quite non-varietal at least to my palate. 2012 was a very good vintage on the GB and I look forward to trying many wines from that vintage, have already tried a few and they have been excellent.
Would like to say something about the use of Grand Reserve and the no doubt associated massive price hike. Not sure which marketing genius has been whispering in the Costanzo’s ears but wish they’d stop listening. Previous vintages of this wine have been in the $20 price range (I bought the 2009 for $23.00 @ CD). What’s occurred here is that the GB has had their best vintage conditions since 2005. I do agree that GB could do something to mark good vintages, and in more recent times those have been 2000, 2005 and now 2012, the reason for this agreement is that the difference between usual vintages and good vintages is often quite remarkable on the GB … more so than other regions. However relabelling their standard range as Grand Reserve and at least doubling the price isn’t something that shows any loyalty or respect to their customers, instead it comes across as a money grab. Peter Stark from Boireann decreased the price of his Shiraz/Viognier from the usual $55 to $35 for the challenging 2011 vintage, he did not then double the price of his 2012 to $110, instead the wine merely resumed usual pricing.
The terms Reserve and Grand Reserve aren’t regulated in Aus (at least to my current knowledge) and are loosely regulated in some other countries. They do however create expectations in the minds of many consumers, it wouldn’t be a bad move within the industry to apply some regulations to the use of these terms. In this instance the terms have been used to designate vintage combined with a justification for huge price hikes.
So now we have the two best Temps in Aus, Mayford @$35, Mt Majura @$37 closely followed for quality by the Samuels Gorge @$35 although a very different style to the other two. Enter into this mix The Golden Grove @$65 (up from about $28). Good luck to them if the strategy works and it possibly could with the predominance of bus load tourist purchases being lead to water, and often also drinking, by the ‘relationships’ within the industry. It could also backfire and we may see the wines eventually being flogged off at big discounts à la Dean Hewitson @vinomofo. I’m doubtful that the strategy adds any real value/credibility to the GB as a whole and it will be interesting to see what Golden Grove do with their 2013 vintage wines, perhaps two tiers, or merely resume normal viewing? What I can state personally is that I will never buy another bottle of GG wine again, as I feel rather like I have been shafted.
Regarding Temp and the GB … well I remain hopeful, but haven’t seen it yet, among the reds shiraz remains the performer with some, very isolated, pockets of mourvedre.
For the record:
- this is the first Golden Grove Tempranillo I have tasted.
- Ray mentioned that he is not averse to price variability based on vintage conditions and quality.
- in the past the wines have sold out.
It’s up to each and every consumer to make up his or her own mind.
“- Ray mentioned that he is not averse to price variability based on vintage conditions and quality.”
This is the only time that ‘non-aversion’ has been implemented.
“- in the past the wines have sold out.”
Yes @ $20 odd dollars.
Everything I mentioned above applies to all of the grand reserve 2012 wines which are really just the same standard wine range continuing into the 2012 vintage. I post this information not for you per sec Jeremy but for any reader who considers it useful and valid to them and not for any other purpose.
You’re free to post whatever you like Peter (defamation laws withstanding). I’ve added the information that I believe is salient. No one else has said anything just yet but anyone is more than welcome to post their thoughts.
I will add that I believe that wines of this quality are exactly what the Granite Belt needs. I’ll also note that I’ve seldom seen such a ruckus made over a $65 price tag for a 94 point wine with a glowing tasting note.
Must admit I was slightly surprised at the $65 price but only approx 90 dozen made and certainly a glowing review + score and it isn’t made every year. Good luck to them – don’t think it’ll end up on a deal of the day site
Maybe Penfolds/Torbreck/Thousand Candles style they should have gone for a higher price, really get people talking!
Precisely Sanjay. Anything under three figures is so passé these days
“it isn’t made every year”
Sanjay, please read my post again … it is and it has been made every year, that’s the point it’s the same wine! What will happen in future I do not know but for now there are only three differences between this wine and all previous versions:
new label – “Grand Rserve”;
new price – from $28 to $65;
new vintage – 2012 has been kind to GB, so was 2005 & 2000.
Well, the 2012 Vintage Grand Reserve Barbera was made differently and I’ve no idea whether or not this was vinified in the same manner as the 2011 or any previous releases – I doubt it was made to a recipe but I will endeavour to find out when I can. It would seem certain assumptions are being made. Anyway…
Personally, I’m now keen to try this wine based on the description and score here and the quotes from Ray. It’s up to him how to price his wine and ultimately the market will decide – not just by buying the limited quantity from this vintage but with vintages to come. Nothing great was ever achieved by playing it safe.
I’m puzzled by Peter P’s insistent negative comments and fixation of price movements – I can only guess that there is some other agenda at play. I note that Andrew Hoadley’s La Violetta 2011 Tempranillo blend from Geographe sells for $75. I admire both Ray and Andrew as winemakers who are making a mark in their lesser known regions and working to develop a credible market identity with their wines.
Jeremy the comments from Wine Discovery Tours guests during the year endorses your statement the Granite Belt’s 2012 vintage has produced reds of concentration and very high quality. …congratulations Golden Grove Estate.
First of all must make it clear, I work at Golden Grove Estate in the cellar door. I object to Peter P’s comment of tourists being lead to water. Most of our visitors are repeat clients and not on buses. Even to my untutored palate, this wine is amazing! It is a true credit to Ray and his father Sam’s hardwork in the vineyard. The 2012 reds are superb and thoroughly deserve the price range. When the 2011 Durif was in a certain publication with other top 50 cellarable wines at $35, it rated higher and was at least less than half the price. This range is not over priced compared to others of the same quality.Great wines! Congrats Ray!
Interesting read this… however PeterP does have a point.
Wine novice that i am, but what defines a “grand reserve” anyway? To the average punter ( myself included ) if i was used to purchasing a wine for around the $20 – $30 mark, and then suddenly they whack a few extra words on a label and the price jumps $40 a bottle… then it would really have to be bloody good.
I’m sure its a brilliant wine by all accounts, judging on reviews… but, it doesn’t build loyalty to increase a product by so much. Meh, my two cents… from an un-wine-educated every day drinker