Idiosyncratic Pinot Noir with swagger. 100% whole bunch, wild ferment, ten months in older barriques. Fruit from a coastal site outside Warrnambool. Winemaker Rory Lane says “there’s a tarriness to the reds from here that I reckon is soil derived”; dark brown/black volcanic ash and small basaltic rocks for topsoil and sandy, shelly and limestone subsoil.
Black earth, coal and rhubarb sit alongside sour cherries, ripe berries and sap. It’s spicy in all kinds of ways. Serious and savoury with solid tannic grip. Smoked meats and gun flint. Busy, busy wine. It handles the whole bunches really well and doesn’t have much in the way of vegetal characters. I like its gait. 93
Tasted: November 2013