I had an interesting chat with Meerea Park winemaker Rhys Eather last year on the matter of brettanomyces. Rhys is of the opinion that all red wines have brett and that it’s just a matter of whether that aspect is in balance and not overwhelming. As a non-technocratic reviewer I’m inclined to agree that balance is the main issue. He also believes that if the wine is sterile filtered then any brett derived characters will not increase over time. I’m not a scientist so I can’t comment on that.
This is rustic, earthy, gamey, horsey and leathery. The fruit, though rich, doesn’t keep up. The wine also seems stripped on the back-palate, concluding with a metallic twang. I’d argue that the is an issue with balance and length here. 86
Region: Hunter Valley
Tasted: November 2013