Winemaker Andrew Marks has a particular affinity with the Wesburn vineyard in the Yarra which produces the grapes for this wine – so much so that he considered purchasing it at one stage. And this is a pretty classy Chenin, make no mistake.
Some funky, solids based wild aromatics that I find most appealing. Custard apple, citrus, honeysuckle and peach yet it’s not really a wine that focuses on fruit flavour. Possesses a yielding, fleshy roundness with a superfine line of acid holding everything in shape and pulling the strings on the back-palate. Mineral and spice closure with ample length and subtle grip. Has body and substance. A charmer for sure. 91
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 12.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: September 2013
I think its a great pity that there isn’t a greater focus on production of this varietal in Australia. The good ones also cellar really well and I have had some stunning aged examples from Moondah Brook Estate and Hanging Rock in the distant past. I noted on a trip to WA last year that what is generally made there is of the overt, fruity, richer style, unfortunately. Wines of the style of The Wanderer are my cup of tea.
It’s certainly a variety that we seem to have struggled with in a stylistic sense in Australia. I’d really like to see more producers working with it in a serious manner too. I’m not sure we can do Vouvray but there are some good examples as you mention. Dowie Doole’s Tintookie can be very good and Jauma’s recent effort was a great drink if not a wine I’d be cellaring. The ultra-fruity expressions like those from Voyager don’t do a lot for me either.
We built legions of this grape in the 90s, but (legitimately) went down the path of using it in warmer climates where its acidity was useful for structure retention. Similarly to how some may be using something like Fiano now. Some of those mid 90s fruit salads with zip out of Plantagenet among others were actually quite enjoyable, perhaps a more aristocratic version of Marlborough Sauv Blanc and one that could have been heroic if the timing and uptake of like minded enthusiastic producers was around.
For Chenin to have gained a foothold more timeless on our landscape, we probably needed to do the Loire thing of making it a higher acid, much cooler climate wine. Wouldn’t have been in fashion a while back, but would have a far better chance now. Upper Yarra sounds right in the wheel house. As would Macedon Ranges and parts of Tasmania. With bracing dry styles that need time and age magnificently, as well as demi-sec styles that may not need so much time and age magnificently.