Domenic Torzi is arguably in the prime of his career as a winemaker. If he sustains this level of excellence then we are all in for a treat. If he improves then we’ll have something very special on our hands. This Sangiovese is sourced from 16 year-old vines in the Koonunga and Moppa subregions of the Barossa. Initially it tastes more of place than it does of the grape in question. Over time though, flesh is given form with supple, leathery tannin.
Chocolate covered cherries, darker briary fruits, tar, earth and dried herbs. A melding of the Valley with the variety. And that’s just about the perfect equation in my books. 92
Region: Barossa Valley
Alcohol: 13.9%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $20
Tasted: October 2013
“Initially it tastes as more of place than it does of the grape” – exactly what I thought. A bit too Barossa for me and not enough Sangio. I like Sangio to be lighter with more pronounced acid. No doubting the quality though. Dom is killing it.
That was certainly how I felt on the first day. It’s great to have a sense of place in your wines but I maintain that it is reductive to ignore the variety (with ‘orange’ wines perhaps providing a puzzling exception). On day two I thought I saw a more even collaboration between both but this isn’t a wine for Sangiovese classicists – and I do understand and respect that point of view. The philosophical questions relating to wine and our appreciation of it would drive us mad if they weren’t so interesting
Hi Jeremy, I’ve always found the Coriole example to be my benchmark for Australian Sangios. Is it fair to say this one has less of that rustic feel to it as per previous comments? Sounds like an interesting example though. Can’t wait to get my hands on a bottle!
Hi Matt – yes, I think it’s fair to say that this is a little less rustic than the Coriole version with less overt acidity. I tend to think of the Coriole being a bit about McLaren Vale too, but with a more obvious Sangiovese character.