Pretty much the Chardonnay I’d always thought and hoped the Canberra District could produce. The site sits 860 metres above sea level and is over 30 years old. Winemaker Chris Carpenter has always been a strong advocate of biodynamics and Lark Hill applied for certification a year after he took up the position in 2002. In 2008 it was granted. These things don’t happen overnight. Most know I’m a sceptic at heart but I’ve often been miscast as an opponent. I try not to rule anything out and these Lark Hill wines are seriously impressive. They’re clearly doing something right.
I loved this the most on the first day, which is not to say it won’t age. I just found the dynamics and definition at their peak then. Mind you it wasn’t the kind of wine to stay still in the glass. Initially it smelled and tasted of melon, mandarin rind, anise hyssop (aniseedy, floral with a suggestion of mint) and citrus. Some leesy funk as well. The anise hyssop dissipated somewhat over time and creamy, leesy body and texture became more prominent. The wine never felt less than alive though due to a boisterous but fine line of alpine acidity.
A very difficult Chardonnay to place in a category and all the more enjoyable for that reason. I found its personality positively magnetic. 94
Region: Canberra District
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $35
Tasted: September 2013
Yep, its up there alright. I remember my first visit to Lark Hill in the 90s and was greeted with blankets of snow! Have very fond memories of a 1996 Chard that lived for ages and a really expressive and varietally correct Pinot from the same vintage. Glad everything is still on track, seemingly. The 2012 Chard sounds fascinating. Thanks for the great note, Jeremy.
Thanks Geoff. I’d love to visit sometime. The quality of the new releases really is very strong across the board and the vineyard seems to be a special and beautiful site.