2013 K1 by Geoff Hardy Hand Crafted Grüner Veltliner

k1 hand crafted grunerWhile the words “Hand Crafted” irritate me as much as the “Reserve” moniker, I sympathise as the winery is looking at more of a Smaragd take on the grape – greater complexity and more weight – and you have to differentiate the two Grüners somehow. It would be illegal to use the term Smaragd on the label and a bit misleading too I reckon. The Hand Crafted is picked two weeks later than the standard K1 Grüner, using partial wild yeasts and warmer ferments with 30% of the fruit seeing time in seasoned Chardonnay barrels. It’s from the same vineyard.

As much as I admire the emphasis on body and mouthfeel over primary fruit, I think too much detail has been lost in the process leaving an overly nebulous wine. Still, there’s an ill-defined honey drizzled apple, stonefruit and spice conglomerate and a surprisingly savoury cedar oak finish to mull over. It’s every bit a first attempt and not a bad one at that. An iterative process should eventually produce better results. 87

Region: Adelaide Hills
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: August 2013


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