Earlier this year I had a bit of a chat to Adrian Rodda of A.Rodda wines, who worked alongside David Bicknell at Oakridge before venturing forth to Beechworth to launch his own label. We were tasting through barrel samples – it was my 40th birthday and I was pretty dusty from drinks the night before so I don’t think I was tasting very well - and talking about different approaches to entry-level wines. Many consumers jump at wines that are “declassified barrels” vinified in the same manner as their higher priced siblings. And some of those wines can represent good value for money. But perhaps it’s more interesting when a producer makes an effort to change his/her approach to suit the fruit that won’t make it into the top-tier wines. Rodda said that was how Bicknell worked with his Over the Shoulder Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The results speak for themselves.
Firstly this doesn’t need the same amount of time as the 2012 Oakridge 864 Pinot Noir to show its worth. There’s plenty of flesh and fruit to get stuck into now. Generous red and black cherries, a bit of plum and strawberry. It’s made to be approachable. But it also displays some serious Pinot-esque traits that lift it above the pack. It’s not simply a fruit bomb. Savoury earth and stone, complexing spiced rhubarb and slinky textural nous. Fine, soft tannins and acid provide the ideal foundation for the flavours to operate from. Real value. Tasty, interesting and intelligently put together. Highly recommended. 92
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13.2%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $23
Tasted: June 2013
“Many consumers jump at wines that are “declassified barrels” vinified in the same manner as their higher priced siblings.”
This is one of my pet hates. I call it the Mollydooker syndrome. The top wine is made from superb fruit which can tolerate all the oak, extraction, and alcohol you can throw at it. The lesser wines are made in the same way with no thought to what the fruit deserves.
Yep, that is too often the case.
I had a glass of this tonight & my first thought was “girly”. By which I mean, soft, fruit-forward, light, pleasant (and still pinotesque). The missus would like this. Definitely one to serve when entertaining this warm (CO2 impacted?) autumn. I’ll see what it’s like tomorrow.