A little bit country, a little bit rock ‘n roll. A cool climate Chardonnay gussied up in an old-fashioned frock. Dysphoric at heart and it doesn’t pull it off with the same interest, charm or class as Antony Hegarty.
44% of the grapes came from the high-altitude King Valley Whitlands vineyard with the rest sourced from the Coombe Farm vineyard in the Coldstream area of the Yarra Valley. I suspect there’s some quality fruit here but it’s corseted in swathes of oak. For the record: “11 months in a combination of new (36%), one year old (24%) and older (40%) French oak barriques”.
Cream and butterscotch eventually release some peach, pear and grapefruit given enough air. Don’t crack it, pour it and drink unless all you want to taste is wood. Buttery texture, leesy weight and a sharp citric backbone. It’s not formless or flabby by any means. It’s just a little confused. 87 Average – Good
Region: King Valley, Yarra Valley, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $42
Tasted: May 2013