I’m on the record as one who, within the realm of aesthetics, values dissonance and even “cruelty” – in Antonin Artaud’s sense of the word. But I don’t always go out of my way to find challenging wines that question my perception of vinous value. Sometimes I seek a more orthodox beauty and sometimes I even like a traditional and comfortable sense of balance (however illusory). That’s what this Sauvignon Blanc from Wirra Wirra offers, and it’s what I took from it in the form of two or three glasses post-tasting.
The most threatening aspect of the wine is its aromatic pungency; a little sting that only heightens the subsequent solace – like a lover who’s embrace is a touch too firm or impassioned to be solely described as pleasant. Nettles, herbs and grass prick the nose but are quickly tempered by lemon, nuanced and familiar gooseberry and even a suggestion of bread coming straight out of the oven. There’s a nod to the importance of texture via battonage, enabling the acidity to align the flavours without any sense of aggression or ascetic didacticism.
It has to be said that even when Sauvignon Blanc strikes this balance successfully, the experience can be brief but there’s some length here. Ample time to enjoy what has been given. 91 Good – Very Good
Region: Adelaide Hills
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $22
Tasted: January 2013