David Bicknell moves from single vineyards to individual blocks with his 864 Chardonnays in 2011, bolstering his quest for terroir and the highest quality grapes that speak of a place and time. The Funder & Diamond Vineyard was planted on the red volcanic soil of Wandin East in 1990. It’s south of Seville and south-west of Woori Yallock.
The wine has a degree of richness I’ve not seen in an Oakridge 864 Chardonnay before. Don’t get me wrong - it’s still nimble, incisive, intricate and elegant – but there is more fruit flavour and some layers to accompany the linear intensity and extension. It smells of struck match, white flowers, dried honeycomb, nougat and lime with a suggestion of stonefruit. Bristling with coiled concentration before poised phenolics and spice see out a breathtaking finish. A suggestion of washed rind cheese adds to the X-factor apparent in the wine. Absolutely stunning. 97 Exceptional
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13.4%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $77
Tasted: September 2012