“I have come to believe that the whole world is an enigma, a harmless enigma that is made terrible by our own mad attempt to interpret it as though it had an underlying truth.” – Umberto Eco
Pizzini are probably the closest we get to a Barolo/Barbaresco expression of Nebbiolo in Australia. Of course, if we heed the words of Northern Italian born philosopher Umberto Eco in his essay “Innovation and Repetition: Between Modern and Post-Modern Aesthetics”, we realise that this cannot be reduced to copying what has come before. Repetition is simply a pathway to “the infinity of the text”; Art (or wine’s) only aim “being to furnish…pleasure to the happy few, reserving fear and pity to the unhappy that remain”. In short, taking the model of Barolo or Barbaresco and moving it to the King Valley Region results in a new and individual take on Nebbiolo whilst continuing the serialised framework of varietal veracity which is inherently part of the grape.
And this wine is both varietal and regional. There is a fruit forwardness to it that is rarely seen in Italy yet it is not defined by primary fruit flavours. Red cherries, plummy depths and raspberry highlights provide balance to the strict, assertive tannin which marks Nebbiolo, making for a medium-bodied wine that can be enjoyed now. But it’s arguably the bay leaves, dried rose petals and spiced orange peel that give the wine its most alluring character – one we perhaps recognise from previous encounters overseas. Star anise, tar and pastrami add further to the complexity of interpretation and terroir. There’s so much pleasure on offer already yet surely more dimensions will arise in time. 93+ Very Good - Excellent
Region: King Valley
Alcohol: 14.1%
Closure: Diam
Price: $48
Tasted: August 2012
This is my new favorite wine review. Can we do Barthes next? or Foucault? Perhaps with a french varietal! Seriously though, there is so much that modern (and ancient) thinkers in the arts can lend to our understanding of wine. Bring it on JP.
A series of structural and post-structural auteur themed reviews sounds like my idea of heaven
Thanks Rory.
BTW, I think the best oz Neb I have tried is Giaconda Nebbiolo 2008. First release I believe but has all the latent power/complexity that barolo has within a more recognisably Australian frame.
A wine I’ve been dying to try. Wine Emporium had it on tasting one Saturday but alas, I was too hungover to make it there. They may still have some stock if I’m lucky…
I almost bought a bottle of the Giaconda Nebbiolo 2008 in Beechworth, but it was getting a little ridiculous and I would have needed to buy another bag so I put the bottle back. If Wine Emporium are out, I’m sure we could get Aaron from Cellar Door Wine Shop to send up a couple of bottles. I just ordered some of the Pizzini Nebb though, so this note is well timed.
I’d be in on that for sure. Reckon you’ll like this Pizzini. Let me know when you’ve had a chance to crack one.
The first Nebbiolo that we made was 19991 and the aim was to bring out the characteristics that we all love in this wine. We aimed to Control the tannins and extract the lovely dry herbal root flavours with finesse and power. Thanks for the great review and the conversation, regional characteristics or terroir play a big part in the making of Nebbiolo.
Fred Pizzini
It’s the value system surrounding wine that’s at issue, isn’t it. Australian wines are derided by some Old Worlders because they are often more fruit driven; arguably a natural consequence of our terroirs . Yet why should this be of lesser value? Is there anything inherently less interesting or good about more fruit driven wines? We’ve inherited a hierarchy of perceived wine quality that our wines can tend to slide their way down simply by virtue of what they are (how convenient).
The escape might be, as you say, a reorientation of that hierarchy into something more pleasure-oriented, where curiosity and honest sensuality rule the roost. Maybe one day.
What’s with this scoring rubbish Jeremy?
MichaelC
Fred – thanks for the added insight into the wine and style. It’s highly appreciated. The tannins are more approachable whilst maintaining a real sense of class, texture and form. It’s a positive feature of the wine. I need some Nebbiolo to drink and enjoy while I wait for the Barolos to hit twenty or so years of age!
Julian – convenient indee
I think there’s a double standard at play here too. Many “Old World” producers would love a little more fruit stuffing. And whilst I derive a lot of my personal pleasure from savoury, structured wines, I agree that there is nothing inherently less interesting or worthwhile about fruit driven wine. In fact I applaud the increasing credit given to wines that are juicy, highly drinkable and fruit-driven. It’s about time.
I also like the idea of breaking down the dichotomy of repitition vs innovation and art vs craft, particularly as those terms apply to wine. I think Eco does that effeciently in his essay. Such a shame I couldn’t find a link to a free version on the net for those wishing to read more. It’s an excellent piece.
Michael –
All the cool kids are doing it (well, except for Max Allen). For me, it’s just an addition to the site. It helps me calibrate my ratings against others and hopefully does the same for readers who wish to do that too. It also makes me more accountable – not a bad thing really. At the same time, as stated, it’s not perfect and it doesn’t imply a sense of the absolute. It’s simply a tool and one which many people find effective in one way or another.
Cheers
J