Straight off the bat, one the best 2011 Chardonnays I’ve tasted so far. Right up there with Oakridge’s beauties but completely different in style. Interestingly, De Bortoli didn’t release a Reserve 2010 as Steve Webber didn’t feel the grapes from one of their oldest vineyards, planted in 1986, made the grade – tough call for a good vintage.
Time will be kind to this but there’s a lot on offer as a young wine too. It’s all about texture. Gorgeous, giving mouthfeel via lees, sparingly incorporated oak and (I suspect) some malo to tame the electric acidity of the vintage. More finesse and restraint here than in the Estate expression. The yielding entry segues into an incisive and slightly flinty finish with gentle phenolic attitude. The aromatics are faint (in a good way); citrus, grilled nuts, struck match, meal and subdued nectarine. There’s some hazelnut praline generosity on the palate. It’s almost layered and linear all at the same time. Fascinating and tasty with impeccable persistence. Excellent – Exceptional
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 12.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $47
Tasted: June 2012