Winemaker David Bicknell continues to be obsessed with exploring single sites – and for that I salute him. Get ready for a wave of Chardonnay reviews. For those who don’t like Chardonnay I suggest seeking medical assistance. It’s too good a grape not to enjoy.
All four of these “Local Vineyard” wines were vinified in the same manner, so I’ll run through it in this note then let it alone. Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed to puncheons (25% new), ambient yeast, no malo, no acidification, no battonage. Minimalist I guess you’d call it. Just letting the grapes talk - “…an experiment where the guinea pigs get to voice their opinion” according to Bicknell.
This is my personal favourite of the Local Vineyard Chardonnays. The grapes are sourced from the Guerin Vineyard situated towards the South-East of the Yarra in Gladysdale. Firstly, the acid is strong in this one. Thing is, whilst it is frisky and all, it doesn’t jump out and separate itself. Grapefruit and Orchard fruits with touches of green apple, lime and (latent) honeysuckle. Spicy cashew oak is in the background and there’s a sprinkle of sherbet on the edge. All that Oakridge precision, detail and persistence are, as ever, on show. Given time you’ll see just how good this will be. Or you can do what I did and drink it now over three nights. It’s tightly wound and will hold up without a worry. Excellent – Exceptional
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13.3%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $38
Tasted: March 2012
“For those who don’t like Chardonnay I suggest seeking medical assistance.”
Brilliant. Sounds like 2011 not at all a disaster for Chardonnay in Yarra Valley?!
Occasionally I come up with the right line
Bottled 2011 Yarra and Mornington Chardonnay I’ve tasted so far (small sample – about eight) have all been good. More acid, yes but not necassarily hard acid or out of balance.