Eldridge Estate: An Ode to Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay

Last month’s World Chardonnay Day presented me with the opportunity to taste the new release Chardonnays from Eldridge Estate alongside a few back vintages – and if I continue to harbour serious doubts about the worth of these twitter based events then I can still say that it resulted in the chance to have a good look at the manner in which David and Wendy Lloyd are exploring the variety to which 1.3 hectares of their 7 acre Mornington Peninsula property is devoted.

Eldridge produce three different Chardonnays. The Estate Chardonnay, first released in 1998, is made in the owners’ preferred style; a solids based expression of the grape which I believe is particularly well suited to the region and the winery’s vineyard. The North Patch Chardonnay is a relatively clean and fruit driven wine, bottled seperately from 2001 onwards. A portion of it is still included in the Estate Chardonnay each year, enabling the “stinky” solids character to be kept under control according to the vagaries of vintage. Both of these wines see 35 to 40% new oak. Eldridge’s flagship Chardonnay, the Clone 96, is released only in outstanding vintages. It’s of interest to note that of the five clones employed in the vineyard, the 96 is the only one that David perceives as being noticeably superior to the others.

My predilection was towards the Estate wine, which I had considered to be a more worked style. Lloyd actually sees it the other way around;

“Rather than doing extra work such as lees stirring there is a fundamental winemaking choice I normally make that sets the North Patch apart from the other Chardonnay. In most years I choose to take the juice straight from the press into barrels for the Chardonnay whereas the North Patch goes into a stainless tank overnight and then clear juice is pumped into barrels for a cleaner and less stinky ferment. I see this as working the wine more than what happens to the other wine.”

2009 Eldridge Estate Chardonnay
13.7% Screwcap $40

Some real richness on the nose with bosc pear, peach and pineapple. Grapefruit and savoury, struck match notes balance the opulent fruit flavours. A little cream and cheesy funk. Loads of textural complexity. Despite displaying significant palate weight and intensity it never strays, with sublime acidity guiding the palate through its course. Nutty throughout and with a good amount of spice on the finish. Impressive length and presence along with admirable character and interest. 94

2009 Eldridge North Patch Chardonnay
13.5% Screwcap $30

Personal preference aside, I believe that this wine is every bit as good as the Estate release. Melon, citrus and nectarine gilded with orange. There’s a hint of sourdough and cream on the nose. Delightful yeasty nut skin bitterness makes its presence felt on the back palate. Excellent precision, drive and persistence. The acidity comes across as very natural and at ease; sure to hold the wine in good stead during the years to come. 94

2008 Eldridge Estate Chardonnay
14.0% Screwcap $40

White peach, apples, toast, cheese and thyme over basil. A well judged clip of oak that’s yet to feel at home but, I suspect, will in the future. The stonefruit and citrus characters are there from entry right through to an extended finish, with spice knowing its place. A generous serve of nuts. Balance and harmony with some funk on the side. Pleasant bitter grapefruit pith finish. It somehow reminds me of a grown-up’s toastie, if rather more complex. 93

2006 Eldridge Estate Chardonnay
14.0% Screwcap 

In the groove. Pineapple, peach, citrus and assorted funk; sweaty kraft cheese slices, struck match and resin. A hint of sweet basil too. Gorgeous buttery mouthfeel, with honey and bitter almond enriching the palate. Unctuous, harnessed power and endurance. The primary fruit is hanging around and the structure is intact but it’s full of vinous, developed complexity. Concludes with delectable nutty, burnt butter characters and a hint of ginger spice. 95
 
2004 Eldridge Estate Chardonnay
14.0% Screwcap

A personal favourite in terms of vintages on the Mornington Peninsula. This is the third 2004 Chardonnay I’ve tasted from the region in the last year – the other two being single vineyard wines from Ten Minutes by Tractor. All three wines possessed a noteable sense of youth and vigour at around 7 years of age. Nectarine and lime, white flowers, fresh cream, honeycomb and perfectly ripe green melon. The nose is bursting with freshness and the palate follows suit. It’s actually still pinched and a bit tight on exit…amazing really. That pleasant adult Eldridge bitterness is still there. Minerality and spice on the back palate leads to a quiet but intense length. A stunning wine that had me hovering around the 96/97 point mark. I’ll opt for the latter. 97

Winery website- http://eldridge-estate.com.au/