McLaren Vale 14.5% Screwcap $24
An interesting little story behind this wine – Greg Trott produced the original “Church Block” with his cousin Roger in 1972. It was a blend of Grenache and Shiraz…because that’s what Greg believed McLaren Vale did best. Along came Brian Croser to give his advice. The “Church Block” should draw its inspiration from the “Old World”, said Brian, and the varieties in the blend changed accordingly to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot…and a good share of Shiraz. Which I guess shows that even 40 years ago, you didn’t fuck with Croser.
There’s so much to like about this wine that it is viscerally disappointing to see it fall at the final hurdle. It’s wonderfully gamine. Playful sweet raspberries dominate proceedings with some sensual earth, juicy orange, spice and aniseed on the side. The Shiraz adds body but it’s more about lively, mischievous acidity and sheer ease of drinking than anything else. You wouldn’t think that amount of alcohol could be lurking under such a pretty, perfumed charade. All the more dangerous given its allure.
Sadly, a bitter herbal note brings the fun to a screeching halt at the end. I wanted to overlook it, I tried to overlook it, but once I noticed it a great deal of the wine’s appeal disappeared. How unfortunate. 89
Winery website- http://www.wirrawirra.com/