Yarra Valley 12.5% Screwcap $29
Here’s a wine that is giving the underdone category of Australian Chardonnay a real nudge. It’s minimalist and reticent – deliberately so I believe. Currently, it needs another couple of years in the bottle (minimum) or a helping of fish and chips. It had me asking this question; can neutrality mask terroir? Dixons Creek is not the coolest part of the Yarra Valley…
A shy nose with tiny flutters of lemon and grapefruit. Maybe some subliminal honeysuckle as it breathes.There’s a bit of pithy textural interest and a subtle hint of lees but it’s mostly citrus and acid. Enough length and penetration to suggest it will fill out with time…the 2008 did, and whilst not quite as extreme, it too was a restrained expression of the grape.
It’s a solid bronze medal wine at the moment and ok value at around the twenty dollar mark for which you will commonly find it. I do think its future looks more positive but there’s a distinct absence of excitement for now.
Winery website- http://www.debortoli.com.au/
"It had me asking this question; can neutrality mask terroir?"
Is that the sound of a nail being banged on the head I can hear?
GW
By characterising it as "neutrality" I think you're being generous! For me, truly neutral winemaking is that which doesn't pervert the fruit's best expression.
Actually, I was referring to "neutrality" of flavour as opposed to winemaking but I didn't make that entirely clear. Something along the lines of "neutrality" as vinous Liquid Paper©, although in this case it may not be there to cover a mistake. Rather, it may be the mistake itself