Orange 14.5% Screwcap $40
Phil Kearney made some very good wines at Willow Creek on the Mornington Peninsula before Geraldine McFaul took over the reins in 2008. I’d always wondered where he would head next, so when I learnt that he had assumed winemaking duties for Ross Hill in Orange I was keen to have a look at their wares. The 2009 releases were the first wines to be made at the new Ross Hill winery, and the first to be overseen by Kearney from harvest to bottling.
I was informed that this Cabernet Franc comes from vines planted in some very old volcanic soils at the Griffin Road vineyard, which (unsurprisingly for Orange) boasts impressive altitudes of between 750 and 850 metres above sea level. Judging from the resultant wine, the variety is thriving in these conditions.
Amazing depth of flavour is on display. Brambly blackberry with blue tinged highlights, cedar, mint and grass with black and green peppercorns. It’s a powerful wine but its balance and firm, fine structure ensure that a degree of finesse is maintained. 18 months in small format French oak has added dark chocolate shavings and savoury complexity but the fruit is so rich that its imprint is far less than one might imagine.
Up until now, the region of Orange has teased me with its promise. This is the first time I’ve seen that potential completely realised. A superb wine that will age gracefully for many years.
Winery website- http://www.rosshillwines.com.au/