McLaren Vale 14.5% Screwcap $60
The Vicar is Chapel Hill’s flagship wine, a blend of the best Vale Shiraz grapes available to them each vintage (although it did begin its life with some Cabernet in the mix). For those seeking distilled terroir thrills, the winery makes a single vineyard range under the moniker of “The Chosen” and whilst I think that’s a great thing, selecting fruit across vineyards within a region to create greater complexity and quality is a method that shouldn’t be sniffed at…it works pretty well for Champagne.
It is pleasing to see the contributing growers, vineyards and blocks acknowledged on the back label – particularly as they have, no doubt, been intrinsic to the crafting of such an impressive wine from such a tricky vintage. As such, I’ll also take the time to doff my hat to both Piombo and Inkwell for their fine work.
The wine in question speaks of its region, its variety and a house style. It bares the mark of a warm year, managing to negotiate its ontic source without denying it. There’s a clip of oak for sure, but it endorses the fruit rather than masking it.
Rich and ripe blackberries and mulberries, roasted coffee beans covered in dark chocolate, liquorice, soy, spice and sarsaparilla. Heaps of complexity on the nose and a layered palate of real interest. It’s plush on entry but a whispy line of acidity gives shape to the flavours as they roll out. The movement into fine, nutty tannin is very smooth and although there is just a little porty-ness on the finish, it manages to get away with it…as good McLaren Vale Shiraz often does.
All it really needs is a little more length but that is quibbling. It’s a delicious drink and should improve with careful cellaring.
Winery website- www.chapelhillwine.com.au/