2009 Capital Wines ‘The Foreign Minister’ Sangiovese

Canberra 13.7% Screwcap $25 Source: Sample

I must admit that this wine posed a few difficulties for me. I’m possessive when it comes to Sangiovese and I like it made in a certain mould. At the same time that contradicts my general stance against the importance of varietal correctness over regionality and, indeed, pleasure. In addition to that, this is only the second Canberra Sangi I’ve tasted & I’m a fan of Capital Wines.

The grapes were sourced from Pialligo Estate and the idea was to accentuate the varietal fruit characters but keep the tannin somewhat in check through short term maceration, thus producing a light to medium bodied wine in a smooth, easy drinking style. Winemaker Andrew McEwin has captured that intent as well as you could possibly hope.

It is medium bodied, brightly red fruited and structured by lively acidity. Cherries, raspberries and some tart cranberry notes. The finish has very mild varietal characters of dried herbs and bitumen. I also got some unshelled peanuts on the nose, something I personally associate with a lot of Canberra reds.

Sandy tannins are apparent but firmly in the background…and that’s one reason the wine failed to excite me. I enjoy prominent tannins in Sangiovese and like the variety made in a manner that almost demands food. This drinks easily by itself (which isn’t to suggest that it couldn’t be well matched to certain dishes).

Overall it is well made wine and I suspect it will have its fans. It’s just not my style.

Winery website- http://www.capitalwines.com.au/

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