Barossa 14.5% Screwcap $28 Source: Sample
I recently had the good fortune of attending a lunch with Louisa Rose, Yalumba’s chief winemaker. She kindly fielded my many questions on Viognier, wine shows, wine media and many other topics of interest to me. I also posed some questions about Shiraz Viognier blends and I thought I’d include some of the responses here, even though they are only tangentially related to my review of the above wine.
Firstly, she was quite happy that the SV movement was running out of steam. Her view was that as its popularity increased, every man & his dog started making one, and many didn’t possess the skills (or desire) to do it very well. Thus SV started getting a lot of bad press. Interestingly, she’s not too keen on Viognier gaining mass popularity for the same reasons. She has a passion for the grape and acknowledges that it is a difficult variety to get right. It too, doesn’t need anymore knockers.
Secondly, and perhaps of even more interest, Rose pointed out that Yalumba source the Shiraz element of their SV blends from vineyards that already provide aromatic & floral intensity. Thus what many people interpret as Viognier’s input is actually there before co-fermentation. She thinks the addition of Viognier, when executed properly, is more about texture than flavour or aroma.
What does all this have to do with the 2007 Cooper Burns SV? Not a great deal I suspect, other than that I think the winery produces a good Shiraz Viognier even though all the grapes are sourced from a warmer region. Please don’t buy this and expect to taste something like a Clonakilla. It’s from a different region and it’s made in a different manner.
It’s ripe & rich but has savoury balance. Florals on the nose, along with some apricot that registers just (a bit too much at 5%) above exotic stone fruit complexity. A little less Viognier would enhance this wine. But I still find it more interesting than the straight Shiraz from 2006. Its silky textural additions, extra spice and improved tannins make it a more satisfying wine. There’s a lot going on here. Shrouded dark fruits & chocolate, dried blood, liquorice, endive and blueberry sweet spots. Serious length. Seasoned French oak is bang on. More supple than juicy, it finishes dry and savoury with a flourish of lovely spice.
Whilst it doesn’t mount as strong an argument for Shiraz Viognier blends in warmer climates as, say, the Head Wines version, it still works. A more than solid wine, and a style I have plenty of time for. Years ahead of it too, should you wish to cellar some.
Winery Website- http://www.cooperburns.com.au/