2008 Capital Wines The Backbencher Merlot

Canberra 13.2% Screwcap $25 Source: Sample

Well, well.  Hasn’t Australian Merlot grown up a lot over the past few years?  Leconfield, Kyeema Reserve, Blue Poles, Tapanappa and Stella Bella are all examples of how to interpret this grape well here.  This and the Leconfield clock in as the least expensive ways to revisit the variety if past experience has put you off.

It’s nutty, with plums and both briary and forest-type berries.  Delightfully medium bodied, with soft acidity and long lines of tannin allowing the more luscious flavours to relax and be themselves.  Positive mint lift through the finish which has a nice twiggy quality about it too.

Could be approached in a cerebral or visceral way. Think it or just drink it, either way you’ll come out on top.

Winery Website- http://www.capitalwines.com.au/

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4 Responses to 2008 Capital Wines The Backbencher Merlot

  1. David says:

    Im sure Mark Gifford will be chuffed that Blue Poles gets the nod twice :)
    But I agree that Aus Merlot seems to have come a long way in the last few years and can have some sort of structure to boot. Cause I have quite a few friends who think that all Merlot is just a bit, well, soft. They might be right on some, buts its nice to see not all.

    Dave

  2. Jeremy Pringle says:

    That's very Freudian of me :) Cheers, I'll fix that up now (although I suspect Mark would enjoy it if I didn't).

    Definitely time for you to break out the "nu-wave" structured Australian Merlot & educate your friends Dave.

  3. Mark Gifford says:

    I must have missed it, but I'm sure two mentions of Blue Poles is more than fair as we have two Merlot dominant wines out there :)

    It's good to see that there are a few producers that are finally starting to realise that Merlot should taste like a Bordeaux wine, and not some soppy, sloppy mess. Though some have gone overboard on the oak to try and gain "structure", that to me is almost as bad as the soft structure-less wines that abound.

    Just had a look at the 2010 Blue Poles Merlot in barrel and the good news is that there is no going backwards with this wine. Can't wait for vintage in St-Emilion and all that will entail – will make the outlook for 2011 at our vineyard that much more exciting.

    Keep up the good work Jeremy.

    Cheers
    Mark

  4. Jeremy Pringle says:

    Interesting re oak and structure. I'll have to have a good think about it. Will also be interested to have a look at 2009 Mike Press Merlot, as its first review (that I know of) has put it in the "structured" camp too. Wonder if it will be oak derived?

    Good news on the 2010 Blue Poles. Best for me to focus on the 2008 for now, must get a few of them for the cellar. Have a great time in St-Emillon, I look forward to your reports from there!

    cheers
    jeremy

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