Margaret River 14% Screwcap $75 Source: Sample
There has been a confluence of things dominating my week thus far. Halliday, Cabernet Sauvignon, the Margaret River & the notion of generalisation. Each will get a mention in the following note.
On the basis of my tasting of a number of 2007 & 2008 Margaret River reds I think one can mount an argument that (in a general sense), established vines produced richer, fleshier fruit in the former year as opposed to the more finessed vintage that was to follow. I strongly suspect that whichever of these vintages you prefer will depend largely on stylistic concerns rather than any supposed “objective” judgement. I’m leaning towards 08…
There’s little doubt when it comes to the quality of this wine. It’s excellent, and it speaks with conviction of its place and time. It’s plush and ripe with dark berries and cassis, yet its Cabernet structure is still strong. There’s some leaf and cigar box but the explosion of fruit flavour means those flavours and aromas aren’t as prominent as they can sometimes be. More chocolate, too, than I used to get given on Easter as a child. For me, it’s all a bit (too much) like an an adult choc berry milkshake. Having said that, I did enjoy it and if someone were to gift me a few bottles, I’d love to pop in them in my cellar to investigate down the track. If you find riper Margaret River Cabernet to your liking, then you’ll enjoy bathing in what this wine has to offer.
I preferred the 07 Stella Bella Suckfizzle Cabernet Sauvignon which displays a touch more savouriness and sophistication (thus challenging my generalisation earlier in this note). I notice Halliday (whom I feel I have spent much of my working week “with”) isn’t as big a fan of that wine. His thoughts on the Suckfizzle? I quote, “classic austere cabernet, no doubt, but I don’t need to be whipped.” Perhaps I just enjoy a bit of pain with my pleasure.
Winery Website- http://www.stellabella.com.au/