d’Arenberg have at least 20 different wines going at the moment. It’s quite amazing that they keep the level of quality so high throughout the range. And it is probably not that surprising to those that know me that my interest centres around their white Rhones. The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne is a perennial favourite of mine, and I’ve had few vintages of the Money Spider now too.
Roussannes often present a challenging flavour profile and they aren’t known to be big sellers. I asked PJ Charteris this year if Brokenwood would ever be likely to release a straight Roussanne & whilst he seemed interested in the idea, he doubted it was ever going to happen. The ability to move it off the shelves seemed problematic. Shame really. Oh well, we have Giaconda & Tahbilk (to name but two others) working with the grape by itself and in blends so there is hope yet.
The 2008 pours a yellow gold colour and whilst the aromatics don’t leap from the glass they are well spoken and suitably entrancing. Gunpowder Green tea, something in between white and yellow peach, white flowers, apples and spice with a couple of squeezes of orange oil for good measure. Nectarine, apricot kernels and grapefruit are added on the palate which is as complex as just about any (white) wine gets. The honey is present from the the start, continuing in balance through the whole experience. The wine almost seems to become fresher as it draws to an intriguing conclusion filled with pepper like spice. It has its unctuous moments but the acidity is there and it never feels too oily.
Overall I reckon it’s a cerebral wine that came into its own with food. Porchetta in my case. The flavours are of immense interest, I love the tea component and there is plenty going on texture wise too. Come at it with an open mind and it will have a fair chance of winning you over to its own peculiar charms.
Winery Website- http://www.darenberg.com.au/