Margaret River, Walcliffe WA Screwcap 13.7% CD $17.50- Tasted 16/8/09
This blog opened up with a TN of the 2007 version of this wine. “Who knows where the times goes?”…as the question was posed in song by Sandy Denny of The Fairport Convention and then subsequently in many cover versions, most notably Nina Simone’s. Sandy was apparently a shy and self-deprecating person, deeply unsure of her direction in life yet longing for success. I can dig that.
The wine: A pale straw colour gives the first indication that Blue Poles are working firmly within their model of restraint over exaggeration and extravagance. I think this philosophy is amplified by the fact that they are working so heavily with Viognier and Merlot currently. But their Merlot is not plush alcoholic plum juice, nor is their Viognier oily apricot jam.
The 2009 shades the 2007 for me. Aromas of honeysuckle, other flowers, lemon, apricot, ginger and spice. The wine sees time in new French oak and is given some lees work again in this release. It works well, with the acid seeming somewhat more prominent this time round. The lees is still unmistakably there though, adding a wonderful textural dimension. On the palate we open with lemon and honey, unripe nectarine, before softening in texture as the wine flows over the mid palate in the form of varietal apricot notes. The long spicy finish is quite fascinating. Ginger yes, but what else? It’s very spicy. I shared this bottle with my father, who suggested pepper. Not so sure on that, but it’s enjoyable and complex spice anyway and makes for an all-together fascinating wine.
It’s well known I love my Viognier, and there are many different interpretations of the grape I enjoy. But, if pressed, I like moving away from the French (Rhone) style towards a more austere expression. This is not steely by any means, the palate weight is ample and the flavours prominent. It is honeyed and tangy at once. It is another wine that leaves you wanting to drink more Viognier. And that’s always going to make me happy. Oh, the speccy new label is very nice too.
94
Winery website- click on title
I have the 07 of this sitting at home and now I want the 09 as well! Too much to try, not enough time (or money)
Have you ever had Shadowfax's viognier?
Ah, the grand problem and joy of loving wine…there is always a "next vintage" awaiting purchasing and tasting should you be impressed with the last
I tried the Shadowfax Viognier, but it was at least 5 years ago. I don't have a TN, but I was purchasing Shadowfax a bit back then and I don't remember having a bad experience with any of their wines.
Would you say it's worth a look?
cheers
j
I just tried there most recent vintage on the weekend (think it was 2008. Shame on me for not being sure but hey, what can you do?) Yes, it wasn’t bad. Not as good as I remember (a really good reason for me to start taking better tasting notes. Damn my fallible memory) but still worth a look. I really like Shadowfax’s chardonnays though.
Dave
Bah, I just had to post an edit this week on the TN I posted near the beginning of this blog on a Battle Of Bosworth Chardonnay Viognier. With all my attention to detail, I couldn't be sure whether it was a 2007 or a 2008
It happens…
I think I tried the 2006 Viognier as I know I was getting into the 2004 One Eyes (Shiraz, Heathcote) back then. I didn't concentrate on it as it was the Chardonnay which first drew my attention to Shadowfax, thus the visit. I cut my wine teeth on that Chardonnay and a few other wines.
I do remember visiting the cellar door very clearly though. It was not busy at the time, and we were treated really well. Hope it's still the same in that respect. The standard Chardonnay is a pretty interesting multi-regional number from Matt Harrop. Geelong, Macedon, Yarra et al.
I know Phil Sexton of Giant Steps rated it highly enough to take it along for a "show-case of Oz Chardonnay" lunch with Jancis Robinson in May 2008. Jancis liked the PHI, the 2003, 2004 & 2005 Giant Steps Sextons & Tarrafords and the 2007 Tapanappa (which she mispelt Tappanappa, see even JR is fallible!) Tiers. She found the 2005 Shadowfax to be obvious. So there you have two talented palates with different opinions. Reason enough for you to TN and blog Dave
So do Shadowfax still release Chardonnay's above the standard level? They used to, I drank a superb bottle after we visited. More restrained and minerally than the standard (which I'd happily drink). Vintage? 2004 or 2005, was drinking purely for pleasure at that time.
Anyway, what a ramble. Your comment just brought back some very pleasant memories, thanks!
I do love a good wine ramble.
cheers
j
Living in Melbourne, heading down to the beach as a kid always meant going down through Geelong to somewhere along the surf coast (in fact, that’s still where I usually go to the beach)
When I became interested (obsessed some would say but that’s a scary word that I’m going to ignore, at least for now) in wine it kinda followed that my first forays into a wine region were through Geelong. I actually live a lot closer to the Yarra Valley (and my folks live heaps closer again) but it’s the Geelong wine region that I seem to return to again and again.
I love the fact that the Geelong region is actually really spread out and that you can get wines from Werribee, the surf coast, the Bellarine peninsula (which I actually haven’t gone into much for wine but depressingly often for work) and my favourite, the Moorabool valley.
These areas to my mind at least, a hugely distinct, especially the Moorabool valley which geologically very interesting area. Small steep valleys seem to emerge from nowhere and some really interesting wineries can be found through there (as I’m sure you’ve realised these are some of my favourites. Which probably says as much about the people working there as about the wines themselves.)
But back on point, the 06 and 07 Shadowfax chardonnay’s were excellent. A good example I suppose of a blend of fruit from different regions. I was hoping that the 08 would be on tasting but not yet. And they’d run out of the 07! What’s a boy to do I say.
There, you’re not alone, another wine rambler bids you good day!
oh yeah, that was dave by the way (and still is)
Cheers Dave. Yep, Geelong is a really interesting region for the many reasons you specified. I must try and get back there next February when I'm in Melbourne. Priority number one is tasting with Serge Carlei, if he's in town. Then I'll pick the next destination out of a hat i reckon.
Thanks for the ramble, love it, and keep on being Dave for as long as you can
cheers
j