Margaret River, Walcliffe WA Screwcap 14% CD $35- Tasted 14-15/8/09
Ok, I’ve had two bottles of this now, and it’s certainly able to be enjoyed at the moment, especially with a good decant. But it’s gonna sing in 10 years time I reckon.
And I think that’s part of why it’s tough to write it up now. There are some obvious flavours and profiles to mention, but it’s serious wine which is far more than the sum of its parts. You can sip on it & contemplate it for hours (it invites you too) but ultimately it remains elusive. Quite an intelligently charming wine in that way.
Let’s just look at what the second day gave me. A lithe mouthfeel, and linear. The red fruits are dominant and vibrant, held in check by an imposing and impressive structure with assertive tannins of excellent quality. There are brambly notes and plum underneath with tobacco/coal/graphite alongside the red berries. The quality of the French oak is clearly impeccable, as its use. Lovely spice on the finish too.
Also, we seem to have suggestions of sundry dried-fruits and a even a little floral action at times, but they seem to me to be but suggestions, nothing more. The touch of chocolate on the back palate is more present, but the harmony means none of these things are talking too loud. I’m trying as best I can to suggest that their is an underlying complexity to this wine. Buy some, drink a bottle (or two) now, enjoy contemplating its future then hold back for as long as you’re able. I think this is going to be a Merlot with a very long life. At the moment you’re enjoying its first articulate expressions which suggest a massive potential. When that potential is realised (and it will be), you’re going to have one hell of a great wine.
95++
Winery website- click on title
Hey Jeremy,
Great write up. I particularly agree about the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. This wine completely changed my perspective on Merlot as a variety. In turn, this has made me realise that there's probably a whole lot more varities that just need to be allowed to 'speak' in the right context (ie. the right variety, made in the right place at the right time, by the right people) so that I'd probably love them too.
I digress; basically, I also love this wine.
Thanks very much. I'm extremely pleased to hear I've communicated some of what I feel this wine is about and that the sentiments in the TN are shared by someone else.
I've been guilty of shutting the door on varieties before myself, but these days it just seems to be an un-necessary foreclosure on the possiblity of more pleasure
Thanks again, I appreciate the feedback greatly!