Coonawarra SA 14% Screwcap $40- Tasted 21-22/8/09
Some Coonawarra Cabernet “For Your Pleasure” (my favourite Roxy Music album, in fact I only listen to the 1st two, when Eno was on board). Oh this was tast-eeeee. Wynns are doing the single vineyard thing, but with a twist. They are highlighting several different vineyards, depending on the vintage. So instead of a Harold’s, Johnson’s or a Messenger, this release gives us the Alex 88 planted in 1988. Wow! Jungian co-incidence or what?
And it’s a wee ripper. We’ve got varietal and regional cassis, leaf and a touch of cigar box on the nose, along with (perfectly acceptable and pleasing) mint and some beautiful violets. Polished cedar oak plays with these flavour like good friends on a sunny weekend: everyone shares and there isn’t any fighting.
Noice coffee, tobacco, pepper and other spices. Tannins are firmly in place, assuring a bit of pseudo-masochist action for the early drinker, and a long future ahead. This drives through the mid palate, no need for blending it. No Cabernet Doughnut. I had a friend who said, quite charmingly, that he found the Cabernet doughnut effect very comforting. Well, none of this wine for him then. I’ll keep it and it’s lovely and long finish to myself.
93+
Winery website- click on title
Too right with the lack of cabernet doughnut effect in the Alex 88!
Can't say I seek out cabernets without mid-palate depth either….;)
I almost totally agree with your score too, my senses said 94 points, but tomaytoes, tomartoes.
Cheers
Chris P
I like the approach – a portfolio that comprises core labels that are blended across sites (eg Black Label) plus what are, in a sense, curios from individual vineyards that provide insight into specific expressions of the grape/region. Not better, just different, and worthwhile.
Of course my mind is totally jumbled when it comes to the arguments for and against Burgundian models of terroir versus blending across sites/regions/etc. But I like this.
Chris- Yep, I like a little mid palate depth fer sure. But that guy was so nice and he spoke in lovely English accent!
And I rarely say tomaytoes or tomartoes, I say apricots and ginger
cheers
j
It is a fascinating little endeavour isn't it Julian. My brother's not convinced as he likes his verticals
And so do I! But a bit of diversity never hurt no-one.
You say your mind is jumbled on Burgundian notions of terroir vs multi-site/region blending?! Yer working too hard dude. It's *so* simple and *so* obvious
Isn't it?