2012 Tscharke The Master Montepulciano

image“I would like to talk to you today about cold feet, and narrow minds. People with cold feet cannot move forward. People with narrow minds cannot move side to side.” - Lancaster Dodd, The Master

Part of the sensibly named “Emerging Styles” series from Tscharke. The word ‘alternative’ has become more or less meaningless. From the Marananga subdistrict near the heart of the Barossa Valley.

Shouldn’t be difficult for Barossa Shiraz lovers or fruit sluts to sidle over to this, although it demands a certain amount of attention and an open mind. Brimful of small dark berries, coal and plums. Fruit-forward and juicy on entry yet assertive tannins kick in almost straight away. Despite the jovial aromas and flavours this wine has fairly stern form and a surprisingly savoury disposition. Unless you desire all your lovers to spread themselves wide in front of you then I urge you to give this a go. It’s tight but oh so pleasurable. Just needs a piece of meat. 90

Region: Barossa Valkey
Alcohol: 14.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: June 2014

http://www.tscharke.com.au

Posted in Barossa, Montepulciano | Tagged | 2 Comments

2013 Circe Pinot Noir

imagePerhaps more compact and less persistent than the single vineyard releases but very good all the same.

Dark and red cherries both sour and glacé are to the fore here. Some sweeter poached strawberry and roasted beetroot. We’ve gone up a gear in terms of power. The tannin is raspy, grainy and layered. A herbal thread still runs through the wine ending on a note of bitter botanical complexity. It’s in the house style, just a little more approachable and generously fruited. 92

Region: Mornington Peninsula
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $40
Tasted: June 2014

http://circewines.com.au

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2013 Circe Hillcrest Vineyard Pinot Noir

imageMay well be the most accomplished expression of the Hillcrest Vineyard (pictured on the right) that I’ve tasted… although I couldn’t find it in myself to crack a 2012 to taste alongside it. Verticals will come later.

More palate weight here and plenty of forest-like, trodden root tones matched to the cherried, berried flavour with a light plum bass line underpinning the wine. Terrific depth of fruit and beguiling fragrance. Whole bunch savouriness seems higher in the mix and the interplay between sweet fruit and savoury herbs comes across as more pronounced – although on the second day they’ve sunk into a rather harmonious whole. Spicy with mild charcuterie characters. A gentle complexing bitterness on the back-palate. Greater emphasis on tannin when it comes to carrying the structural load although the acidity is still bright and the wine fluid. 95

Region: Mornington Peninsula
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $60
Tasted: June 2014

http://circewines.com.au

Posted in Mornington Peninsula, Pinot Noir | Tagged | 2 Comments

2013 Circe Whinstone Vineyard Pinot Noir

imageThe Whinstone Vineyard, located in Red Hill, is a mere six acres planted with a Westerly aspect. Winemaker Dan Buckle describes it as a little warmer than the Hillcrest Vineyard, which remains the heart and soul of Circe wines. This is the first release from the site under this label. It adds a little light and shade to the portfolio although the common threads that I see in these wines is still apparent; translucence, clarity and length.

Delicate stylings, light-bodied. Centres on the freshest of raspberries with rose petal florals and suggestions of star anise and mace. Exhibits a savoury bouquet garni character on the nose and back-palate. Crystalline acidity carries the flavours, imparting a sense of levity. Silken. Tannins are sappy offering no more than a subtle rub on the tongue. 93

Region: Mornington Peninsula
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $60
Tasted: June 2014

http://circewines.com.au

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2012 Yangarra Estate Shiraz

imageThe 2012 vintage has produce some bold McLaren Vale Shiraz even from vineyards situated in cooler sites, like Yangarra’s. When it comes to descriptions you often find yourself using words that have inherently negative connotations when it comes to Australian wine.

This smells and tastes of blackberry jam, plums, prunes and spice yet the fruit doesn’t feel desiccated and the sweetness isn’t confected. It is full-bodied with a substantial play of toasty oak though. Plenty of mid-palate heft and carry through the back-palate and a fine spread of tannin tying things up. Performs exceedingly well for the price. 92

Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: June 2014

http://www.yangarra.com

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2013 Three Dark Horses McLaren Vale Shiraz

imageI believe this comes from a single vineyard, I know not where, in McLaren Vale. I’m sure winemaker Matt Broomhead will enlighten me. Distinctive profile for a Shiraz from the region.

Very red fruited on the nose. Cherries and redcurrants with vanilla, chocolate, licorice, blueberries and a little grilled meat on the palate. Assertive, undulating waves of tannin pull the wine through to a very dry finish. Like it. 90

Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $24.99
Tasted: June 2014

http://www.3dh.com.au

Posted in McLaren Vale, Shiraz, Syrah | Tagged | 2 Comments

2012 Xanadu Margaret River Chardonnay

imageIf writing tasting notes or trying to promote discussion and debate in wine has taught me anything, it’s that the idea of what constitutes ‘boring’ is even more subjective than individual tastes. Notes are dismissed by self-satisfied consultant sommeliers because apparently no one reads them – a position which shows a vast lack of awareness my audience let alone that of a juggernaut like The Wine Front. Debate seems to be theoretically encouraged but then duly marginalised…probably because it involves more effort than writing notes. Anyway, I won’t call this Xanadu Chardonnay boring. I’ll refer to it as ‘standard issue’.

A step up in volume of cashew, nougat oak over the Next of Kin reviewed below with an accompanying increase in creaminess. Same sort of fruit flavours – more intense and less overtly tropical though. Let’s say it’s in the brown pear, (rock?)melon and ruby grapefruit spectrum. A dash of spice, no more. Good carry. Gets the job done. 90

Region: Margaret River
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $35
Tasted: June 2014

http://www.xanaduwines.com

Posted in Chardonnay, Margaret River | Tagged | 7 Comments

2013 Xanadu Next of Kin Chardonnay

imageWell executed lightly oaked Chardonnay. If you love the variety this is the sort of expression you can share with friends who don’t.

Pears, lime, melon extending into sweeter tropicals. Perhaps a touch too much pineapple and fig for my tastes but that’s more a personal taste issue than a criticism of the fruit. A lick of cream and a handful of cashews. Acidity keeps everything in line. Finishes on woodspice and a welcome hint of pithiness. Lacks intensity and length but drinks well. 88

Region: Margaret River
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $18
Tasted: June 2014

http://www.xanaduwines.com

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2014 Xanadu Next of Kin Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

imageWhile the public’s appetite for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc appears to be insatiable it’s not unusual to hear a Margaret River winemaker question the greater difficulty in selling SBS/SSB’s. The problem that I have with this is two-fold. Good Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (and it can be very good) is remarkably different to good Margaret River Sauvignon Semillon blends…which kind of makes the query moot. Secondly, the hidden inference that a lot of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is rubbish, while true, doesn’t mean that the same can’t be said of its so called alternatives.

We’re in sharp, pungent nettle country here. Takes just a sniff to know. Passionfruit, capsicum, snapped peas, citrus and asparagus. As much vegetable as fruit. Dilute and wanes quickly. If this is what’s on offer then I’m going to opt for the V8 juice myself. 85

Region: Margaret River
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $18
Tasted: June 2014

http://www.xanaduwines.com

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2012 Savaterre Chardonnay

imageThis strikes me, in a way, as being a timeless style of Chardonnay. Fashions and fads will come and go but regardless of how anyone might feel ordering this off a restaurant wine list, there will always be a number of us squirrelled away at home with a bottle nearby.

It’s not shy when it comes to oak, but darn those barrels taste good. Aniseedy herbs, stonefruit, smoked almonds, citrus and woodspice. Toasty and a tad creamy yet with a great deal of latent richness and power. Still a baby.94+

Region: Beechworth
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $75
Tasted: June 2014

http://www.savaterre.com

Posted in Beechworth, Chardonnay | Tagged | 4 Comments