The 2011 was stunning and this is almost as good. Fruit comes mostly from the Gateway Vineyard in the Seaview region with a portion also sourced from the Hickenbotham Vineyard towards the north in Clarendon “to [aid in] the production of the elegant, refined style of McLaren Vale Shiraz that we aim to make.” For Toby Bekkers, finesse does not have to come at the cost of flavour. “It’s going to have Vale intensity but how do we tilt it towards spice and silkiness while keeping that sweet spot? We [McLaren Vale] can be self conscious. It’s so bloody stupid to beat yourself up about your assets.”
Bolder than the previous release but perfume and texture remain the hooks. 15% whole bunches, wild ferment. The oak is toasty and significant but always in balance. Plenty of stuffing yet not at all cumbersome. Lit up by violet florals and Asian spices of which star anise is the most distinctive. Purple berries with glimmers of blue fruit. Chocolatey. Perhaps as much velour as silk on the tongue. Any extra-body is carried with ease by tantalising acidity and grippy yet sensual tannins. 95
Region: McLaren Vale
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $110
Tasted: May 2014