A wine that will probably prove divisive. The 40% whole bunches are prominent. Not an issue for me but others will find it more challenging.
Rather pervasive vegetal/cactus aromas. Smoky and flinty with the strong pull of undergrowth. Black and purple forest berries, extremely complex spice. Builds and builds through the sinewy line to an emphatic climax. Layered tannins weave through the palate, sharing the structural load with deep acidity. Medium-bodied, minimal oak static. My money is on improvement after a five to ten year stint in the cellar. 93+
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $30
Tasted: May 2014
Yarra Valley seems to be leading the way in edgy, whole bunch wines. Think Timo Mayer and funk for example. I love it, but not everyone is ready for the journey yet. Is this the future? I hope there’s a place for traditional and cutting edge, adding a bit of challenge to our day to day drinking. There’s a place in my cellar for sure.
From my experience, there’s certainly been a move towards whole bunches in Yarra Shiraz but within a broad spectrum in terms of prominence – wines like this, Jamsheed and Timo’s 2012 Syrah at one end, with gear like Oakridge and Giant Steps Mea Culpa not displaying as obvious a whole bunch influence. I’m pretty sure there’s room for everyone and I don’t see the pervasive stalk style taking the place of all other expressions in the future. I reckon diversity will remain and probably increase.