If you think that Tahbilk’s 1927 Vines Marsanne has a lot in common with Hunter Semillon, that’s because it was intentionally modelled on it. I believe that is both a blessing and a curse. Look, it’s a terrific wine that ages well and develops those toasty, honeyed notes without oak but we already have Semillon and Riesling. I tend to prefer Marsanne when it offers something of greater difference in a varietal sense. Anyway, let’s put that to the side.
For a nine year-old wine this tastes very fresh. Lemon and orange citrus, hay and a little wax. It’s only hinting at what it will become. I couldn’t find much in the way of trademark honeysuckle but its extension is outstanding as is its intensity. For my tastes it needs another five to ten years, then I’ll get excited. 94
Region: Nagambie Lakes
Alcohol: 11.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $46.95
Tasted: September 2013
I enjoy these wines, and they are remarkably ageworthy and have great drive but I am often left a little cold by them, as if the quality hangs on technique and vine age rather than the inherent suitability of the site to the variety, and relying on early picking to give the wine a spine rather than the balance that one gets from the perfect site. Then again I often struggle with hunter semillon and clare rieslings for the same reason too. There are exceptions of course…
I feel like I’m in the same boat these days. I used to look upon the 1927 Vines with a sense of wonder. Now it almost seems contrived, although that’s probably too harsh a description. Most of that has to do with early picking for me. I’ve never heard the site angle expressed. It’s an interesting way to look at it. My initial reaction is that there are certainly some sites which play a big part in the success of Clare Riesling or Hunter Semillon. A few that come to mind are the Braemore vineyard in the Hunter and Jim Barry’s Florita vineyard and Lodge Hill vineyard in the Clare. But that’s merely an opening gambit for a much longer discussion. As you mention, there are exceptions.
Just having a glass of the 1998. And the thing for me is that there is no wine quite like it. There are marsanne-based wines with equal richness (the del rios and All Saints come to mind) but they usually involve oak in some form. And it is recognisably a marsanne, not a riesling or a semillon.
Its makers obviously have an intent and the wine meets that intent. And the outcome is agreeable if not earth-shaking.
It’s certainly agreeable. I don’t think anyone has came near suggesting otherwise. I wouldn’t rate All Saints in a line up of Marsanne myself. The last vintage I tried was very underwhelming. I personally prefer Marsanne with flavour (which does not have to be oak derived) and subtley bitter skin contact myself. But to an extent that’s besides the point. I did give this 94 points and say it was terrific. If your cork seal held up then I’d have no doubt you (or I) would enjoy the six year older version more than this. As I’ve said before, I have no desire to be an arbiter of taste. I am just happy to express stylistic opinions within a balanced tasting note and comments thread.