It would seem that quite a lot has happened since I last visited the Montalto Estate cellar door in 2008. For starters winemaker Simon Black arrived in 2009 with stints at Heathcote Estate, Willow Creek and Clyde Park under his belt. I can’t offer much commentary on the arc of development since then, having tasted very few of the wines but these new release single vineyard Pinots are worthy of attention.
For drinking right now this is my pick. It’s the lightest, most fragrant and effusive of the bunch. Sweet dark and red cherry, spiced plums and rose petals. Star anise, pepper and rosemary. Silky and intense but nimble, fairly prancing across the palate with a bright acid structure. Suggestions of baked rhubarb and apple on the back-palate. Very mild but fine tannin. Good persistence and vitality. 93
Region: Mornington Peninsula
Alcohol: 13.1%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $65
Tasted: July 2013