All of these 2012 Giant Steps Chardonnays are far from sterile or safe. There’s ample character, significant lees work and lots of spice in every one of them. The Sexton this year seems to be a bit more cerebral than previous releases.
Savoury smoky, struck match characters are front and centre but the primary fruit, which chief winemaker Steve Flamsteed believes to be a feature of the vintage, handles those sulphide-like features with aplomb. White stonefruits, apricot, lime and hard cheese all play a role with lemon curd and a fine but driving grapefruit spine providing the foundation. Oatmeal and brazil nuts become more apparent as it opens up. Extremely complex and a little unexpected…but in a delightful way. 94
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $40
Taste: July 2013