I’d suggest that the Mea Culpa wines are going to be of significant historical importance for the boutique Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander winery. I won’t use the term ‘game changer’ as I’ve read that about twelvety billion times over the last two years and it really is beginning to irritate me – but these are wines that will matter and they will be looked back on as a major player in the evolution of a producer who holds a position of tremendous importance in the Australian vinous landscape.
Firstly, gravity flow is employed for both the Chardonnay and the Shiraz. Chief winemaker Steve Flamsteed believes that mechanical pumping processes “physically chop up tannins and mess with the wine. There’s no shearing involved when we utilise gravity flow.” The success of this approach has seen “a complete transformation in the whole process at Giant Steps.” The 2012 Giant Steps single vineyard Chardonnays will be vinified in the same manner. This 2011 Mea Culpa is a blend of those three single vineyards – Sexton, Tarraford and Arthurs Creek.
The other major step taken in what Flamsteed refers to as a “small commercial trial” is the replacement of cold stabilisation with an extended maturation regime. Twelve months in barrel then six months in stainless steel where it’s just left out in the cold. That “second winter” takes away the need for cold stabilisation and any undesirable properties it imparts.
So, what we have here is a very special wine. Arresting textural complexty via lees, ambient yeast, 500 litre French puncheons and one third malolactic fermentation. That’s matched by an intricate web of flavours that are distinct and discreet. Some funky, wild notes; washed rind cheese, resin and yeast amongst them but there’s a solid core of primary fruit providing the necessary counterpoint. Mandarin and pink pickled ginger from the Tarraford Vineyard and some more generous white stonefruit from Arthurs Creek. Mingling in are seashells, grapefruit, nuts and sourdough. Great feel, intenisty and flow with enviable endurance and some tightening phenolics. An altogether exciting experience. 95
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $60
Tasted: June 2013
Wow! You’re impressed, I’m impressed. I’ll surely be having a crack at this one, Jeremy. You havn’t crossed paths with the Shiraz as yet?
Can’t recommend it highly enough Geoff. I’ve been looking at the 2011 Mea Culpa Shiraz since this morning. I’ll check in on it again tomorrow but I’m pretty darn impressed with it so far.