Winemaker Patrick Sullivan’s name is nowhere to be found on this bottle. We are told that it is grown by Andrew and a little research tells us this Andrew (last name George) owns the tiny vineyard in the Upper Yarra Valley from which the grapes for this were sourced. It’s actually a collaboration between Patrick and his close friend Luke Polson. They’re after purity. 100% whole bunch because “we want savouriness but also fruit intensity.” And that’s what they’ve hit upon here. It’s tasty gear for sure. Patrick says “I always worry that as soon as an input is made (such as destemming, punch downs or pump overs) something is taken away from the authenticity of the site. However I’m certainly not saying these techniques are wrong, they just don’t suit my style.”
Love the ripeness of fruit here. Juicy mulberry and blackberry over cherries. Interest and savouriness in the form of tree bark, vegetation, herbs and a hint of quinine. A lot of depth but it’s still highly perfumed. Suggestions of grilled meats, roasted beetroot and pan juices. Much going on but it’s not a cacophony. Integrated acidity sheds light on the dense profile and imparts agility. Plum skin tannin kicks in early, adding a pleasantly sour and bitter note. Pepper and mace seasoning. Real mineral presence and plenty of length. 92
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Diam
Price: $40
Tasted: June 2013