I’m of the opinion that the real excitement at Yelland & Papps lies with their ‘Second Take’ and ‘Devote’ labels. These ‘Divine’ releases are glossy and showy – quite traditional flagships really – and they will have their fans but I prefer what the other labels offer.
Sweet lifted fruit and oak. That’s at the heart of this wine. It does have a type of complexity – satsuma plums, caramel chews, coconut/vanilla, concentrated blackberries, baking spice and licorice. Lots of different flavours going on and they flock together into a luxe and opulent whole. I’m not as certain that the complexity translates into character though. The acid feels a little forced and uneasy, imparting an almost spindly dimension at odds with its hedonic centre. The back-palate is all about strong mocha oak and that’s what I’m left remembering. 90
Region: Barossa Valley
Alcohol: 14.0%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $75
Tasted: June 2013