Tasted briefly alongside the 2006, 2008 and 2009 vintages last week then again from one bottle over two days. It’s looking just as impressive today as it did in the mini-vertical. I suspect many of us over-rated the 2009 LEAS Chardonnay – myself included – but I have no such doubts here.
It’s as powerful a wine as ever but it’s coiled and tight with impeccable structure. The oak is more integrated than I’ve ever seen in a young Art Series Chardonnay. It contributes toast and sweet spice but it’s certainly not the dominant feature. Fruit is first and foremost. Focused, fine, intense and persistent fruit. Pears, grapefruit and lemon sidling up to a little nectarine. What I can’t see is any white or yellow peach. Some almonds add further savoury interest. As good as it is now, it will mature into one of the great vintages of a wine of outstanding pedigree. 97 Exceptional
Region: Margaret River
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $96
Tasted: May 2013
I didn’t over-rate the 2009
You didn’t have it at 96 points
Using my old ‘words only scale’ I’d bump it down from “Very Good – Excellent” to “Very Good” on the basis of that mini-vertical. But I’m not too concerned with a rating of around the 93 mark for the 2009.