From the Watervale subregion of the Clare Valley. Thought the 2011 ODEON was a pretty special wine but this 2012 rendition leaves me strangely cold – especially given the expressiveness of the vintage. Interesting to note that the listed ABV has dropped 1.5%. Could mean something, could mean nothing – especially given the leeway allowed when it comes to these things.
First thought? Where are those enticing florals? I can get a little jasmine, maybe some juniper berry and fennel but mostly I’m smelling leesy bread and oak with some fairly generic lime. Very savoury palate with plenty of complex mouthfeel and tannin but the oak really stands out and the fruit feels obfuscated…blanketed in the same way the flowers are smothered by lees. The finish is chunky and clunky. Where’s the joy, the pleasure? There just doesn’t seem to be the flavour or the substance to match the stylistic endeavour this year. And given what else we’ve seen from the 2012 Clare Riesling vintage that’s a worry. I gave it three days and my opinion never wavered. 87 Average
Region: Clare Valley
Alcohol: 10.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $55
Tasted: April 2013