Used to be known as the Pizzini Vin Santo but regulations forced the change of name. Per Gli Angeli translate to “For the Angels”, referring to the evaporated wine resulting from barrels that are never topped up. It’s said to be for “the saints”. The Vin Santo method is still employed. Trebbiano is picked at low baumé then layed on racks for drying. The dehydrated berries are then crushed and the juice is fermented in small oak with a layer of flor yeast developing on top.
This was tasted in situ at the Pizzini facilities then later over two days. The first time it was served after a historic and still enjoyable 1992 Nebbiolo made by Fred Pizzini and Mark Walpole – the second vintage of Nebbiolo they ever made and still much more than a curio with complex bay leaf, sage and aniseed perfume alongside gorgeously waxy tannin – and perhaps the best ever Pizzini Nebbiolo made to date, the 2002 Coronamento with all its perfumed floral glory and fine cured tobacco aromas. The fact the Per Gli Angeli still elicited a “wow” speaks for itself.
Crème brûlée complete with burnt toffee, rancio characters and honey. Sherry-like nuttiness that refreshes the palate almost leaving a sense of dryness after the preceding sweet and indulgent flavours; it just begs you to take another sip. Unlike many Tokays and Muscats (which I respect entirely) this doesn’t leave any sense of heaviness. Your mouth doesn’t feel like it’s glued shut with sugar. Volatile acidity is used brilliantly, lifting the aromas but never overpowering the wine. Superb now with the potential to develop even greater complexity with age. 95 Excellent – Exceptional
Region: King Valley
Alcohol: 14.1%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $65 (375ml)
Tasted: March 2013