The first thing that strikes me about this Rosé from ex-Giant Steps winemaker Dave Mackintosh is that it doesn’t seem to be copying any style I’ve ever tasted. It’s no pale imitation of Provence and it’s got a bit more presence than most Yarra Valley Pinot based expressions. A touch more weight, yes, but it has rhythm and flow. It’s also extremely earthy.
Whole bunch, carbonic fermentation, old French barriques, full solids, battonage and malo have all been utilised to some extent – Rosé made with intent. It smells of red forest berries, musk, the aforementioned earth and pepper. There’s a little fruit sweetness on entry as a gentle textural layer sheathes limey acidity and subtle phenolics. Handsome and savoury for the most part with impressive length. There’s every chance I’m rating this a point too low, but I loved it all the same. 92 Very Good
Region: Yarra Valley
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Tasted: December 2012