2012 O’Leary Walker Adelaide Hills Chardonnay

In October of 2006 Glenn Richards of Augie March posted an update on the band’s website entitled “MISSES WOODY ALLEN’S NEW FILM AND DRINKS TWO OLEARY WALKER CHARDONNAYS COS HE HAS TO DO THIS ARTICLE”. They were touring heavily on the back of the “Moo, You Bloody Choir” album – a series of songs that simultaneously made them and broke them. Five months previously The Go-Between’s Grant McLennan had died of a heart attack, aged 48. All of those interested or involved in the Australian music scene still mourn his passing.

I was drinking O’Leary Walker Chardonnay that year as well. I can’t recall exactly which vintage but I remember the wine as a well-priced rendition of a peaches and cream style. This year’s vintage is difficult to assess as it’s been released so young. I spent three days trying to get its measure. At first I thought the winery had chosen to make a style that is de rigueur these days. It threw up aromas of grapefruit, struck match and smoky, toasty oak. In the mouth it seemed lean and spindly with plenty of acid.

While I suspect the expression has evolved since I last drank a bottle, a bit of air unveiled some different facets. The oak, at first hard and mean, nestled into the wine and white peach flavours began to emerge. A touch of butterscotch and oatmeal as well. Malolactic fermentation and lees stirring have been employed but at this stage the wine shows little in the way of texture. I suspect it needs more time in the bottle before it sheds its lanky profile, fills out and decides what it wants to be. 87+ Average – Good

“O working girl, you don’t get round enough, it’s like yr daddy says…
You gotta do some clockwork” – Glenn Richards

“What he wants to know is,
What do you do when the goodtimes fly?
Because the pieces don’t fit together,
When a sweetheart lies” - Grant McLennan

Region: Adelaide Hills
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $22
Tasted: December 2012

http://olearywalkerwines.com