I tasted this wine with friend and colleague Julian Coldrey of Full Pour fame. Our first response was a collective utterance of the word “wow”. Then we got down to the all important business of ranking the wine and deciding whether or not it was better than the Grosset Springvale of the same vintage. Or perhaps I did and forced him into the conversation. He was talking about wine and hierarchies anyway so I’m hardly the only one at fault.
My answer is that this is indeed a better wine than the 2012 Springvale…or it will be in time. At the moment it inspires awe but in the future it will provide just as much hedonic, base pleasure as its counterpart. It’s currently filled with steely resolve and unwavering focus; it isn’t interested in chatting to you. As you look at it (and it certainly doesn’t feel the need to turn its visage towards you just yet) you can discern apple blossom and lime underneath the wall of purity offered up by minerally, blank slate. Some rind and pith suggest themselves as well. But the length, oh the length. It goes on and on and on just like this tasting note. So let’s cut to the chase and score the fucker. 96+ Exceptional
Region: Clare Valley
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $50
Tasted: December 2012
It’s a truly super wine though, as you note, pretty unforgiving at the moment. But such length and form. Lovely.
I was left quite bemused by a recent comment from a wine producer (Willow Bridge) that no young Riesling should garner more than 91 points. I couldn’t disagree more vehemently, even if a wine is tight and unforgiving. Pleasure is still able to be experienced – though of a different sort – and quality is clear. God only knows how that producer would rate young Barolo…
As we discussed on the night, if one chooses to score then a fundamental question becomes: do you rate the experience in front of you or do you rate its potential to develop into greatness?
A related question, as you draw out, is how one defines pleasure in this context (if pleasure is indeed the basis for your rating of the wine). I’d argue there’s often enormous pleasure in tasting a wine’s potential…
And on that last point we find definitive agreement
e-five!
Agree that this is a better wine than the 2012 Springvale while acknowledging my personal preference for Polish Hill River rizzas (especially aged ones). There is also some grapefruit/over ripe lemon – whatever you wanna call it – on the springvale palate that I don’t enjoy (personal thing). Pikes the Merle 2012 is right up there with this one, may even pip it in a photo finish. Particularly interesting that you remark on the length which is also a feature of The Merle this vintage. Some great rizzas in the 2012 Clare vintage. Have you had a go at Paulett’s 2012 Antonina?
Peter – I’m eager to try the 2012 Merle. Will get in touch with someone at Pikes and see if they are interested in submitting a sample. I really enjoyed the ‘Traditionale’ 2012. Paulett’s don’t send me any of their wines and unfortunately I don’t have any contact details for them.
Actually, surprised that you weren’t at the ‘Pikes Cellar Door on the Road’ at Mr and Mrs G (Riverside) on Tuesday 18th September, their entire lineup was there including, as of then unreleased, The Merle 2012. It will be a yearly event so get on board – emails and invites went out to cellar club members only, but a few accompanying guests were allowed. Was a great night with very generous pours (which eventually disintegrated into help yourself!), lots of canapes a very friendly Pud Smith and Neil Pike and to top it all off en primeur purchases @25% discount. CU there next year : )