A couple of good’uns in the Riesling stakes from O’Leary Walker this year. The Watervale is, as you’d expect, the more expansive and expressive. It’ll age though, don’t you worry about that…
Waxed lemons and lavender on the nose. Acidity is comfortable and fine but driving. Some pithiness and rind in the mouth. Maybe even a bit of spiced orange and bath salts. Plenty of reach through the back-palate too. 93+ Very Good
Region: Clare Valley
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $20
Tasted: November 2012
Disappointed with this wine, thought I would like it … others did. However for me it finishes with a rind bitterness that I do not enjoy at all, just my palates sensitivity to particular bitter tastes I guess.
Funny you should say that Peter. I’ve been thinking about (different kinds of) bitterness in Riesling of late. Personal thresholds come into it, no doubt. And then I think there is positive bitterness and negative bitterness. But there are also days when I don’t want any bitterness in my Rieslings. That doesn’t really clarify things much does it? But perhaps that’s not a bad thing.
For the record, I have tasted/drunk this wine three times since this review and have scored it slightly lower on all occassions. Having said that, it’s always remained in the “silver medal” range – for what it’s worth.
Jeremy, why not write some more on this topic, I’m sure many will be interested. Recently on a wine forum where I am a member another user stated they were mildly disappointed with the 2012 Dandelion Wonderland riesling because it had an “off putting bitterness at the finish”. I grabbed a bottle and I can see what he means, there is a bitterness there, not especially pronounced and nowhere near as noticeable as the O’Leary Walker Watervale. It disappeared with cheese whereas the O’Leary was only tamed by a sweet dessert. However as a straight drink without food it is noticeable in the Dandelion and not what I really want in a rizza. No-one else reviewing the wine has commented on this … so different palates.
I do enjoy sour in rieslings but bitterness is not really me territory, although no problem for me in red wines. Interested in what you mean by positive and negative bitterness, especially in the context of riesling. Some will be from phenolics but difficult to locate sources without detailed knowledge of the wine and wine making. Because riesling is a rather delicate taste experience when compared with e.g. red wine, the subtle nuances are quite important. Please tell us more!
I’ll be on the road and interstate for most of the next two months. It’ll give me a good opportunity to talk to a few winemakers about the subject and do my research. But yes, I think it’s a fascinating topic. I’ll see if I can put something together.